Viktor Horsting & Rolf Snoeren
In 1996 Viktor Horsting & Rolf Snoeren flyposted the streets of Paris to announce their own strike, a personal rebellion against the pressure to create a new collection every six months.
They turned instead to Haute Couture, which they designed for five seasons. Feted for their extravagant construction and unconventional appearance, the Couture garments were very highly acclaimed which enabled them to return to ready to wear. Viktor & Rolf devise spectacular presentations for their collections. Conceived before the design process begins, they have presented moving images projected onto the bodies of static models, and sent tap-dancing models down the catwalk.
The year 2008 was a big one for the mild-mannered Dutch duo: The Barbican in London held a well-attended retrospective of their work, Dieselï¿½s Renzo Rossoï¿½who already controls Dsquared, Maison Martin Margiela, and Sophia Kokosalaki, among othersï¿½took a controlling stake in the brand, and for their spring 2009 show, the boys paved new fashion-show territory by forgoing a live runway and opting instead to broadcast via Internetï¿½with model Shalom Harlow (the only model they used) and a slew of pixels to spice things up. If you put aside the theatricsï¿½and sometimes this is tough to doï¿½itï¿½s clear that there are real clothes here, and the fashion communityï¿½s ongoing support is evidence of that.
Mixing the drama of grandly staged opera with the precision-chic of Paris couture, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren are some of the industryï¿½s most famousï¿½and oftenï¿½unpredictableï¿½showmen. Too arty to place in the just-fashion category and too fashion-y to simply be called artists, they meld the two like few others. Collections are never boring affairs, and shows employ fantastical techniques, whether itï¿½s models wearing their own cumbersome lighting structures or clothing presented upside down.
Renowned for the cut and proportion of their designs they turn recognisable, classic forms into unfamiliar features, such as oversized shirt collars, sleeves and jackets.
Tilda Swinton, Tori Amos, Kelly Osbourne, Mischa Barton, Gwen Stefani, Ellen DeGeneres, Rachel McAdams, Anne Hathaway, Christina Milian, Eva Mendes