Ugo Cacciatori was born in Carrara. The women in his family were involved in science and fashion (his mother was a teacher, his grandmother a dressmaker and his aunt a milliner), the men with art and marble (his great grandfather was the sculptor Benedetto Cacciatori). He spent his youth with his father in the mountains, learning to recognize the stones, forms and materials.

He fell in love with the work of Lord Byron and Shelley, travelled a lot and studied architecture. He had no interest in fashion but, "All these experiences are essential to understanding my work today."

In 1995, he moved to London to work for architects that he had met when he worked in Carrara as a chauffeur and interpreter during the international marble festivals. There he was carried away by the city, which was at the height of a period of creative ferment. He got involved with fashion by chance, with a women's collection created almost just for fun in 1999 for Zappieri Group.

With the first money he earned he produced his first collection, on his own, and presented it at Modamilano. He started out with clothing, but nobody knows that.

He was so sure of himself and his bohemian approach to the industry, that he set up a showroom in Carrara, forcing customers and buyers to go and find him in Tuscany. He had even thought about going back to architecture when, in 2001, Lancetti asked him to develop ornaments and jewellery for the Piazza di Spagna fashion show.

On the Spanish Steps, he got noticed by Valentino, who he has been working with as a consultant for four years now.

He has worked with Giambattista Valli at Ungaro, Romeo Gigli, Marni and Veronique Branquinho.

He decided to accept an offer from Maxfield. Within a few months, his creations were on sale in Harvey Nichols in London, Barneys, New York and Antonioli and Antonia in Milan.

In 2004, he opened his Milan showroom, where he designed many of the furnishings himself. In 2007, the New York showroom came into being.

At the end of 2005, he became art director at Santacroce, from 2007, he began working with Diesel on a line of high profile silver accessories and since *** with Dolce & Gabbana on leather goods.

John Galliano often wears Cacciatori creations, even when he appears to greet guests after one of his fashion shows. He has even called his fish Little Ugo.

The Look

Ugo Cacciatori is best known for his dark and moody aesthetic. Skulls, swords, sunken treasure, and bike-chain-worthy necklaces are reoccurring themes in Cacciatori’s tough but beautifully baroque jewellery. If not for Ugo’s show-stopping designs, the sheer detail and craftsmanship of the jewellery is something to be admired.

Who Wears It

Dita Von Teese, Juliette Lewis, Karl Lagerfeld, Keith Richards, Madonna, Jay Z

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