the designers

Fashion Designer Anne Marie Beretta was born in 1937 in Béziers, France. She arrived in Paris in 1957 at the age of 20 and was encouraged by Roger Bauer at Jacques Griffe to pursue a career in fashion.

In the 50's, she worked for Antonio Castillo, designing for the theatre in her spare time. She also worked for Jacques Esterel for some time. In 1965, she joined manufacturer Pierre d'Alby and launched a highly successful line of brown linen garments. She then went on to work for Georges Edelman, Ramosport - who manufactured her rainwear line in the 80's - and thereafter for Bercher.

In 1974, after about 20 years in training, Anne-Marie Beretta established her own ready-to-wear label. She has a serious sombre style and sees her clothes as mobile sculptures. She also designs ski-wear. Max Mara's collections of stylishly tailored suits were designed by Anne-Marie Beretta. Her trademark is a play on proportions, from wide collared coats to mid-calf length trousers and asymmetrical lines.

In 1986 she was awarded the prestigious French honour of Chevalier des Arts et des Lettres.

Anne Marie Beretta paintings and home ware products have been exhibited in Paris during 1995-1997.

The Look

Her most outstanding creations: - Camouflage-cloth garments, winter 69-70 - Ample-armhole sleeves, winter 71-72 - Chinese-fashioned dress, Mao suit, spring 75 - The pareo, winter 76-77 - Elbow-shaped sleeves and asymmetric drapings, winter 79-80 - Wide-waisted Chinese overalls, spring 80 - Knee-shaped trousers, winter 80-81 - Free-panelled scaffoldings, spring 81 - The poncho, winter 81-82 - Shields-looking belts, spring 82 - Coiled-in-upon-themselves dresses, winter 82-83 - Pareo-skirts, snap-hooks, spring 83 - The umbilical-cord-like draping, winter 83-84 - The "jupe-couettes" : draped from within, winter 84-85 - The "cornet" skirts, spring 85 - The whaleboned tailor suit, winter 85-86 - The sarongs, the gypsum flowers, spring 86 - The "peau de peche"*, winter 86-87 - The "coup de vent" dress, winter 87-88 - The draped cloaks, winter 88-89 - The gigantic pipings, spring 89 - The skirt-like underpants, winter 90-91 - The pareo-like overalls, winter 91-92 - The double dress, spring 92 - The skirt with a tail, winter 92-93 - The wild coat, the coat with folded linings as in fine leather craft, winter 93-94 - The full-lining cardigan, winter 94-95 - The rivet-fastened dress, spring 95 - The scarf-necked raincoat, spring 96 - The capes and the mandarin coats, 96-97 - The culottes, spring 97 - The double-sleeves, the quill-shaped back jacket, winter 97-98

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