Hermes, Aeffe Group, Jean-Paul Gaultier S.A.
In 1976 Jean-Paul Gaultier presented his first collection under his own name, at the "Palais de la Decouverte" comprising articles such as furnishings, table sets in plaited straw. In 1977 he started his own firm, for couture. In 1978 his first collection with partner Kashiyama. He held twice-yearly collections of feminine wear, the most important of which. In 1981 Gaultier changed his partner and Kashiyama went back to Japan, where he still produces Gaultier products under licence for Japan and the Far East. Sales in Italy were handled by Gibo for woven goods and Equator for knitsIn 1988 Gaultier launched his jewellery line.
Hermes have financed Jean-Paul Gaultier since 1999, to the extent of 35 % of his company. In May 2003, they announced that Gaultier would become the chief designer at the house of Hermes, replacing Martin Margiela. Gaultier designed for them beginning with Fall/Winter 2004. This is the first time that Jean-Paul has designed for any house, other than his own label.
Gaultier does not like primary colours, he prefers ivory and half tones. His images are tiny but sacrilegious, his cut a little better, his vision breathtaking. He is a designer who has made his reputation by attaching 12" conical breasts to Madonna and putting men in Lycra jumpsuits covered in small diamond shape mirrors. As his fantasies wing their way down the runway, you see Backless T-shirts, cutaway jackets with more space between than fabric, a riot of prints, insanely skirted mens pants and beautiful women. Very little is what one would expect. This sets him apart from other controversial designers. He starts with some classic point, something people are familiar with like a blazer, or a chemise, then he deforms it, knots it, stamps on it, but retains its classic shape. Gaultier's vision of 21st century clothing is spray-on disposable clothes, seamless and without openings. To take it off, one would pull firmly and throw away. According to Gaultier, our clothing has not changed drastically up till the 20th century, and styles and construction have not kept pace with advances in technology. He says changes are imminent. He will probably be the designer putting them into practice. He popularised the use of skirts, especially kilts on menï¿½s wardrobe, and the release of designer collections. Gaultier caused shock by using unconventional models for his exhibitions, like old and fat women, pierced and heavy tattooed models, and by playing with traditional gender roles in the shows. This actions granted him both criticism and enormous popularity.
Madonna, Nicole Kidman, Rihanna, Kylie Minogue